|
- I'd like to get into model building - where do I start?
- My Tips Page has a number of ideas and thoughts for new modelers. You may also want to check message boards and forums related to your subject of interest, and see if there are any model clubs in your area. A simple Google search will yield some good results.
- It seems like everything I see uses a different scale! What do things like "1:48," "quarter inch," "O," and "40mm" mean?
- For some reason, different terminology is used for different modeling genres (1/48, quarter inch, O, and 40mm are actually all the same size). A scale written as "1:48" or "1/48" is a simple ratio: one of our inches equals 48 of the model's inches.
"Quarter inch" and similar notations usually refer to architectural material: it's a shorthand way of saying "one-quarter inch on the model equals one foot on the finished product" (in this case, 1/4" = 1' is the same as 1/4" = 12" which is the same as 1" = 48" or 1/48). "O" and other letters ("G" "HO" "N" and "Z" are also common) are Model Railroading scales. Each letter has a unique scale, i.e. "O" equals 1:48 and "HO" equals 1:87. Finally, scales noted as "40mm" refer to figure modeling, where the number expressed represents the average figure's height in millimeters. A more detailed explanation of what all this means can be found here.
- So what's better - plastic or metal?
- Traditionally, 1/24 plastic kits offered finer details while metal cars were less fragile (1/24 is still the most typical scale to see offerings in both metal and plastic). Some diecast metal vehicles were highly detailed, but these were primarily cars from the Franklin Mint or Danbury Mint - usually at US$150 or more each. Over the last few years, though, companies such as Polar Lights and Jada Toys have been creating highly detailed diecast vehicles for one-tenth the price of a "Mint" car. These and other companies have helped bring diecast cars away from the "toy" designation, so today the plastic and diecast are pretty evenly matched. Most likely, the biggest factor will be availability of your subject matter - in the end, you'll probably get a mix of both in your collection.
- What about resin kits?
- Resin kits are made from a much denser plastic than regular "injection molded" kits. The plastic is not heated and injected into as mold (as with mass-produced kits), but hardens from a liquid to a solid via chemical reaction. Resin kits are usually low production items, and are often referred to as "Garage Kits." Because they are made by individuals instead of manufacturers, their quality can vary from nearly flawless to nearly worthless castings. Their popularity comes from the fact that resin kit makers tackle subjects that are deemed not commercially viable enough to market by mainline manufacturers (this will often involve licensing or other legal issues).
- So what's this site about?
- This is a collection of scale models I have built over the years. I started building in earnest around 1992, though I had tried a few kits before then. My main focus is on 1/24 scale cars and trucks, though I do build aircraft, spacecraft, and other kits now & then. I also collect action figures, and will often change minor details that were made "incorrectly" at the factory. This site covers all of my hobby-related interests to some degree, and hopefully offers concepts and ideas to other hobbyists. It also provides a place for people to comment on my work, both positive and negative, and I always enjoy hearing from others.
- OK, but why models?
- Simply put, because I enjoy the hobby. I've met a lot of cool people through this and other modeling sites, and enjoy sharing ideas. By showing the models I've built, both good & bad, I've gotten a lot of great ideas and feedback on how to improve, or what I could consider for future projects. Part of the fun for me comes from the fact that some projects can require unique engineering solutions, design concepts, or construction techniques, while other models are simply refinements of existing replicas. I also tend to work along specific lines of interest - Transformers, Batmobiles, and other TV & Movie cars - and I suppose there's a certain sense of nostalgia with these.
- If you build models of TV & movie cars, why don't you have a model of [famous vehicle] yet?
- I tend to like the obscure cars - everyone knows about James Bond's Aston Martin or BMW, but how many people remember the '71 Mustang Mach 1 he drove in Diamonds are Forever? Cars like the Vanishing Point Challenger and A-Team van will all be added eventually - I just have a lot of kits to go through.
- Can you build a model for me?
- Sorry, but I can't take on modeling projects for others at this point. However, there are a number of excellent modelers that can help you out - be sure to check the forums and boards at Scale Auto Magazine, Starship Modeler, or Brian's Model Cars.
- Do you sell your models?
- Unless an item is specifically listed as for sale (for example, my Holiday Auction Models during their auction periods), none of the models are for sale.
- What about an unbuilt model? Can I buy one from you?
- Possibly. However, I'm not a dealer, so 99% of my kits have been opened and many have had a part or two removed. You're certainly welcome to ask, but if you're looking for a specific discontinued kit, I'd recommend checking out Fred's Model World or an online auction site like eBay. For Japanese kits, HobbyLink Japan is the best source available. If you don't know whether a kit exists or not, or if you know it does but don't have a hobby store near you, feel free to send me an e-mail.
- OK, so what exactly is a Holiday Auction model?
- Every year since 2000, I have built a model for the express purpose of selling at online auction. The auction usually runs sometime in November or early December, with the goal being to have the model in the buyer's hands before Christmas. 100% of what was raised during the auction is then donated to charities in the Capital District region of New York State.
- Can you send me more photos of a model?
- In most cases, yes! As long as I still have a model, I can take pictures of anything specific you'd like to see. Just send me an e-mail with what you'd like to see, and I'll get some pictures as soon as I can (please bear with me if it takes a few days to get them; I have to share a camera, so I don't always have the ability to shoot the model right away).
- I have this kit, but no instructions - can you send me a scan of the instructions?
- If I have the kit, yes. Just send me an e-mail with the kit maker and kit number.
- I have a web site, too. Can we exchange links?
- Absolutely! But only if it is related to scale modeling, custom toys, action figures, or related material. Many people have heard that cross-linking promotes web sites. That's true, but only if you include the word "relevant." Ranking on sites with hundreds of unrelated links, or link farms, are generally penalized, not boosted. More importantly, I doubt anyone looking for scale modeling info cares to be bombarded with ads for online gaming, cheap drugs, etc.
- What's with the links on the individual model pages?
- To paraphrase Indiana Jones, 70% of all work is done in the library. Or, in this case, through books & movies. Either way, I usually spend quite a bit of time studying my subject before I start building a model of it. This can be difficult, as movies and TV shows have a tendency to use different vehicles at different points of filming, and the result is a car with subtle (and sometimes not-so-subtle) differences from scene to scene. Comic books & graphic novels are even worse, as the artist isn't bound by the laws of physics. The links on the specific model pages go to source material (or at least material closely related to the source material) for that project.
- You never responded to my e-mail! What gives?
- If you've sent me an e-mail and it's been a few days without a response from me, odds are that I 1) Didn't get it (spam filters can block messages incorrectly sometimes), 2) Got it, responded, and my message never got to you due to a server error or spam filter, or 3) I've been looking for information to answer your question (I try to run through all of my resources before I simply say "I don't know"). If you're expecting a large file from me - a set of photos or an instruction scan - please make sure your e-mail can handle the incoming message. I know some messages have been lost forever because I sent a message, and the receiving host thought I was sending spam and/or a virus. If I haven't gotten back to you after a few days, please send me another message. I promise to get back to you as soon as I can!
|
Model Glossary:
- #11
- Common blade size used in hobby knives, also known as X-Acto knives.
- AMT
- Model kit manufacturer. See rcertl.com
- Bburago
- Diecast model manufacturer. The "double B" is a company trademark, and is not spelled "Burago" (Burago is a town in Italy). See bburago.com
- BMF
- Stands for "Bare Metal Foil," an adhesive backed metal foil used to simulate chrome trim. It can also be used as a fine masking material. Available at bare-metal.com
- Box Stock
- To build a kit without adding anything that wasn't included in the box, just modeling tools. Considered the most basic form of modeling.
- Cyanoacrylate
- Also referred to as "CA Adhesive," commonly referred to as "super glue." Any adhesive that contains cyanoacrlyate.
- Danbury Mint
- Collectible manufacturer, their lineup includes diecast cars. See danburymint.com
- Diecast
- Refers to metal-bodied car models. Also spelled "die cast" and "die-cast."
- Evergreen
- Manufacturer of raw plastic materials including sheets, strips, tubes, rods, and textured sheets (like corrugated siding). See evergreenscalemodels.com
- Fiber Optics
- A means of lighting small details on a model. Light conducting fibers carry light from a source (such as a bulb in the middle of the model) to the outer shell of the model and through tiny holes drilled in the shell.
- Franklin Mint
- Collectible manufacturer, their lineup includes diecast cars. See franklinmint.com
- Garage Kit
- Generally refers to a low-production kit made by a private party (i.e., in someone's garage). Usually used in reference to figure & monster kits, but cars also apply.
- Greenlight Collectibles
- Diecast model manufacturer. See greenlighttoys.com
- Jada Toys
- Diecast model manufacturer. See jadatoys.com
- Kitbash
- Using parts from multiple sources to create one finished project. A '67 Nova with '83 Thunderbird seats would be a kitbash.
- LED
- Stands for "Light Emitting Diode," a source of light that glows when current is passed through it. LEDs have no filament, use less power, and are much cooler than traditional bulbs, so they are ideal in modeling applications.
- Maisto
- Diecast model manufacturer. See maisto.com
- Plastruct
- Manufacturer of raw plastic materials including sheets, strips, tubes, rods, and textured sheets (like corrugated siding). See plastruct.com
- Polar Lights
- Model kit manufacturer. See polarlights.com
- Repaint
- To modify a model or figure making few or no physical changes.
- Revell
- Model kit manufacturer. See revell-monogram.com
- Scale
- The ratio of size between the original and the model: a 1/24 car is 1/24 the size of the original car.
- Scratchbuild
- To create a model (or part of a model) from raw materials: sheet stock, foam, clay, wood, etc. Considered the most advanced form of modeling.
- Sprue
- The plastic trees that hold the model parts in a kit. Also known as "runners."
- Styrene
- Short for "polystyrene," the plastic model kits and raw plastic materials are made from.
- Tamiya
- Model kit manufacturer. See tamiya.com
|