Tip of the Month
|
Tip for July 2008:
Ready-Made Road
Stair treads, available at most home improvement stores, make excellent roads for small dioramas or display cases. They have nicely textured surfaces and reflective stripes to mimic the center line from a 1:1 road.
|
|
The first of each month, a new tip or technique will be posted in this space - whether it's a new construction technique, a new product, or some really great reference material. Previous month's tips can be read by clicking the links in the right column. If you have any feedback or a tip you'd like to share, send me an e-mail!
|
Tips for New Modelers
Scale modeling can be both fun and frustrating, sometimes both at the same time. If you're just getting started in the hobby, there are a few things you should know before you get started...of course, there will be exceptions to every "rule," but if you start with some basic guidelines, it will help you to take the hobby in your own direction. Then, once you get past the basics, you may want to start customizing your kits beyond how they come out of the box. This could be anything from detailing a model or doing minor custom work to complete kitbashing or scratchbuilding.
 |
 |
 |
 |
Garfield © 2007 PAWS, Inc. Used with permission |
If you're just starting out, or if you're looking for a new technique to try, hopefully this page will have something for you. Very few of my models are "box stock" anymore, so I'm always trying out new techniques and ideas. Many ideas end up in the parts boxes, but those that do work out can usually be applied to even more projects in the future. If you have an idea, a technique, or a product you've discovered and would like to share, send me an e-mail at spencer1984@yahoo.com and I'll include it here on this page.
If you are just getting started, here's a few pointers on what you'll encounter...
The Basic Tools
What should I get? |
Where can I get it? |
X-Acto Knife |
Hobby, Craft, & Office Supply Stores |
Glue/Cement* |
Hobby & Department Stores |
Tweezers |
Hobby, Department & Dollar Stores, Pharmacies |
Small Scissors |
Hobby, Department & Dollar Stores, Pharmacies |
*There some different types of glue you will want to consider:
- Liquid Cement - a.k.a. Plastic Weld, is good for tight joints between bare plastic
- Tube Glue - Can be used in imperfect joints, and parts can be repositioned after they are placed. Like Liquid Cement, it works best between bare plastic parts.
NOTE: Testors makes two types of tube glue: the regular (orange tube) and the "safer" (blue tube). From experience, the regular works far better anywhere there is stress (wheels, suspension, etc.). The "safer" does not dry as solid and tends to sag.
- Superglue - Excellent for quick bonds between parts, but cannot be repositioned. Also, it sticks to everything, including tools and you. Best if used sparingly.
NOTE: Some of the best superglues are those found in Health/Beauty sections of stores as "Nail Glue" for fake fingernails. They are the same product as hobby superglue (cyanoacrylate), but are usually cheaper.
- Amber Glue - a.k.a. "Walther's Goo" or "Ambroid Cement", this will hold anything together, including glass and wood. The drawback is, it is thick & yellow, so it must be used in hidden areas, plus it is very slow drying.
- White Glue - Glues like Elmer's are excellent for installing windshields, canopies, and lights because it dries clear without "frosting" the plastic like other glues can. It does not form a strong bond, though, so it must be used in no-stress areas.
If you plan on painting, you will also need the paints, brushes, toothpicks for small detail work, and brush cleaner/thinner. You may want to look into an airbrush kit, especially if you have used an airbrush before.
In addition to these necessities, some other things you may want to consider: sanding paper, a set of small files, a drill with various bits (.010"-.075"), a small saw, clippers, and a magnifying glass.
Choosing A Kit
First, pick what type of model you want to build. Car? Airplane? Ship? Spacecraft? There are several genre out there, so you should be able to find something you like without too much hassle. If you have absolutely no idea where to start, try going to a store like Wal*Mart or Toys 'R' Us, and look through the models in their toy department. These and similar stores usually have a good selection of kits that are pretty basic, so you should get some ideas there. Snap together kits might be a good place to start, but skipping straight to the glue-together kits will probably not be too difficult.
Two other options are "ProFinish" kits and diecast (metal body) kits. The ProFinish kits are good if you want to try something beyond a simple snap kit, but are not yet comfortable with spray or airbrush painting - the bodies in these kits are already painted and decorated, ready for assembly. Diecast models are growing in popularity, in part because they are fairly simple to assemble, and in part because they are more durable than plastic models. Most of these kits screw together and have the body paint/deco complete, so any gluing or painting is minimal. One downside to diecast kits is that because they have metal bodies, modifying these kits is more difficult, especially for beginning modelers. Also, the metal bodies in these are traditionally less detailed, and lack the sharp definitions of their all-plastic counterparts. While this is still mostly true, some manufacturers (such as Polar Lights) are making diecast kits with fantastic detail at reasonable prices.
Some kits I would stay away as a beginner include: skill level 3 or higher kits, vinyl kits, and anything that has over 200 pieces.
If you're serous about it and would like some further recommendations on current kits, you may want to check out a modeling magazine such as Scale Auto.
Building It
You've got the kit and the tools, so now what? First, find a clean, well-lit place to build your model, away from people or pets that may knock pieces around. If you will be gluing or painting, make sure your work area is well ventilated (this is both for safety and practicality: glue and paint dry faster if they can be vented). If possible, the best place to paint is outdoors on a warm (70-90°F) sunny day with a light wind. This will make the paint dry fastest, although you will have to take care that the project is somewhat sheltered so you do not get debris blown into the wet paint.
Second, when you are removing parts from the plastic trees, do not twist them off. This will often tear off a piece of whatever part you were trying to get. Instead, cut the part off with a sharp X-Acto knife or clippers, and carefully trim any excess plastic away.
If you have to choose only one type of glue, I would reccommend tube glue, and use it sparingly. It's an old cliche, but a little really does go a long way. Your finished results will be all the better for a light touch, too.
Finally, when the model in finished, unless it was built as a toy, do not touch it excessively. The natural oils in your skin can damage a painted surface, plus the more it is handled, the more likely it is that something may be broken off.
Other than that, remember to have fun. By no means is this a rule book: you can ignore most of what I have said here and still make a decent model. This is meant only as a reference to anyone who would like to start building models but has no idea where to begin. If you thought this was helpful, or if I missed something, or if you think I have no idea what I'm talking about, let me know at spencer1984@yahoo.com.
|
|
Past Tip of the Month Features:
|
